Here at New Forest Koi, we want your experience
of Koi
and ornamental fish keeping to be the pleasurable experience you expect. Our staff are always on hand to
freely advise you to ensure the health of your fish and the enjoyment of your hobby. The most
frequently asked questions and issues that arise with fish keeping are dealt with below and
sum up our experience in keeping New Forest Koi in the best of health.
If you are at all unsure about any issues with keeping our fish, please contact us.
Transport of Your Fish
-New Forest Koi are concerned to ensure that all fish ordered for delivery reach our customers in the same condition they left our farm, and in a condition that our customers have come to expect and appreciate. Detailed here is a walk-through of how your fish are packaged and delivered.
-Your fish are selected from our holding tanks and placed into the waiting bag with water.
-A second bag is added for security during transport, in case of puncture or seal failure.
-The inner bag is blown full with oxygen and sealed, using elastic bands, then the outer bag is sealed. It may not seem a lot of water in the bag, but it is the oxygen that keeps the fish alive, and the water is just a means of transfering that oxygen to the gills. The fish will have enough water to ensure they can swim upright in transit.
-The bag is put into a prepared box of the correct size, and secured. Boxes are marked 'Fragile', and 'Live Fish' to ensure the couriers are aware of the precious contents inside the box. New Forest Koi use a courier that deliver live fish for many companies, and we have been a client of theirs for some years.
-Fish are sent in the afternoon to reach our customers the following day, between 9am and 1pm in 99% of cases.
-Our method of packing will allow our fish to travel healthily for a minimum of 24 hours, and are boxed in numbers that allow maximum comfort for the fish in any given season. For example, we may have to increase the number of boxes that we use in warmer months, at a minimal cost to the customer, to ensure the safe arrival of the fish.
-All New Forest Koi ask is that there is someone present at the delivery address to ensure fish are introduced to their new environment as soon as possible after delivery. Customers should notify us as soon as possible if delivery/fish health has been less than satisfactory upon arrival. No responsibility will be taken for health problems that occur after a reasonable period, however, we are always available to advise you on how to care/treat your fish, however long you have had them. This after sales support is important to us, and has given New Forest Koi an enviable reputation in the industry.
RECEIVING AND INTRODUCING YOUR NEW FISH TO THEIR HOME
Transport is a stressful time for your fish, and it is important that vital steps are taken to ensure a safe and healthy transition into the pond/tank. Unless
your fish seem particularly stressed, the following steps should be suitable for your fish. New Forest Koi take every precaution
to ensure the fish arrive with you in the best possible condition. Should this not be the case you should notify us immediately.
We recommend wherever possible that new introductions should be quarantined before release.
1)Avoid any unneccesary disturbance of the box.
2)Aim to transfer your fish as soon as possible to your pond/quarantine tank.
3)Float the bag on the surface of your water to allow temperatures to equalise. Temperature shock can be stressful to a fish, particularly after transport. Half an hour should be more than adequate in most situations
4)Open the bag and gradually add some of your pond water to the bag. This will assist the fish in acclimatizing to both the temperature and pH of its new environment. New Forest Koi is situated in a hard water area, and chemical make up of the water may be dramatically different to
some areas of the country.
5)Ideally, release the fish without allowing any of the bagged water to enter the pond. This is just good hygiene practice.
6)Observe your new fish carefully over the first few days, along with the reactions of any existing fish.
KOI FRY
Koi fry are a very enjoyable way to expand on your hobby. Having enjoyed keeping koi for a few years, many of our customers decide to try rearing their own from a small age.
However, keeping such fragile fish can often be difficult, but following our guidelines there
is no reason why anyone cannot experiment with this area of fishkeeping.
1) Koi, because of their breeding, have a relatively poor immune system, and at 6 weeks old it is
practically non existent! Koi fry must never be mixed with any other fish. Pathogens that your old fish (of any species)
have learnt to live with and repel will quickly infest your fry and wipe out the population very quickly.
One of the most common calls we get from people losing fry turns out to be the problem that they have been added to water previously used for other fish, or after release into a system that uses
the same water/filter as a pond with existing stock. Don't do it! Fry from 'natural' spawnings will
often survive as they are hatched in those same conditions. Our fish are hand stripped and hatched in relatively 'sterile' conditions. This increases survival and quality
but does affect immunity at a young age. Apart from this,
fish fry are the favourite food of any fish large enough to eat them, even fry of different sizes cannabilise each other!
You will find that some varieties of koi naturally grow quicker than others, which should be
appreciated when buying mixed batches of fish.
2) Water quality, as you would expect, must be first class to support young fish through the early stages of their development.
Highest quality filter systems and oxygenation is a must. Consistent average water quality rather than 'peaks and troughs' will
see most fish survive happily. Stress through water quality changes can have great effects on your koi. Often, water changes will sort these problems out, but make sure it is gradual, nothing more than a trickle. This will ensure no major sudden changes in
chemical composition occur, stressing the fish.
3) Feeding your fry is a relatively simple issue. Any standard Koi diet crushed or ground in a blender will see a suitable development and growth.
For 2004, New Forest Koi will be marketing a fry food, specially developed for the perfect development of koi fry. Small regular feeds on a daily
basis (subject to space and water quality) will give sustained growth and your fish will soon learn to congregate around the feeding spot.
4) Whatever unit you decide to grow your fry in, it is recommended that you heat the water to around 20 degrees to maximise
growth and health of the fish. A constant temperature profile will provide optimum conditions for the health and survival of your fish.
5) Your young koi, dependant upon their variety, will look very different from their adult shape and colour. Body shape develops with age, and though influenced by
fitness and food availability, there are general developmental changes you will notice as they grow. Colours on your koi will develop at a greater rate when young,
and in some cases will keep changing throughout the life of your fish. Above all do not expect your fry to be as brightly coloured as you would expect the adults to be.
The colours will come with time and is part of the excitement of rearing fry.
6) Consider what you will do with your fry as they grow. If you achieve a good survival rate (around 75%) the fish will rapidly outgrow their units, causing overcrowding and health problems.
Ensure you have enough space for your fish, or a way of thinning them out.
KOI FINGERLINGS
By the time your fish are 4 inches plus, many of the problems associated with 
small fish rearing are lessened. All of the rules still apply however, but fish
from this size are better able to fight off disease and cope with environment changes.
Increasing pellet size will optimise growth and the fish will better handle an outdoor environment, though isolation from seperate batches is still an important consideration. Keeping a close eye
on water quality and fish behaviour is essential, and any change from regular patterns should be observed
and acted upon if neccessary.
At some time in all fish keepers lives, there will become a health issue within the pond.
The subject of health is huge, but this page will try to describe some of the more common problems encountered, how to recognise them and ultimately
ideas on eradicating the issue.
It is advisable to remember that treating the desease that you can see does not always end your problems. It is often the cause of the disease that needs to be investigated and dealt with for long
term eradication.
Your fish will often tell you if there is a problem in your pond, and you
should notice a change from their usual behaviour. Do not rush in however until you are certain you have diagnosed correctly. Treating your fish for something that isn't there in the first place will not help! Generally look for sulking, fins clamped along the body, or signs of irritation such
as flashing or increased mucus build up. New Forest Koi hold no responsibility for outcomes of any advice given on these pages. If in
any doubt, always contact your local aquatic retailer for advice
Water Quality
Most fish health issues initially arise from water quality problems and this area of fish keeping should be considered the most important.* Water Temperature is not often controlled in outdoor ponds, but your koi are warm water fish and are happiest in water of 18-27 degrees. However, pond management in warm water is increased, and in the summer owners should be aware of the limitations of their filter system. Your fish will increase their food intake in warmer water, thus increasing the waste output too! Rapid Temp changes will stress fish. The ideal fish temperature range is often ideal for parasite and bacteria growth too!
* Oxygen depletion is a source of many fish deaths. If you have a heavily stocked pond, consider additional aeration. Ponds with heavy plant growth will often see a major dawn depletion of oxygen, as submerged plants respire at night, using up the available oxygen in the water. Remember to that your fish in the summer are more active and feed more, but the warmer the water, the less oxygen it is able to hold.
* Nitrite and ammonia are toxic to your fish and it is important that your filter is regularly maintained, and of a sufficient size for your pond and stock. Consider also the flow rate of water put through it! Ammonia accumulations cause reddening of the skin and disability of the gills by its caustic effect. Fish suffering in water with high ammonia will become isolated, lie on the bottom, clamp their fins, secrete excess slime, and become susceptible to parasitic and bacterial infection.
New filters and pond systems often suffer from high ammonia due to an undeveloped bacterial colony for nitrification. Partial water changes are advised to help reduce a sudden ammonia increase. Test kits are easily available to check on this area of water quality.
* The pH of your water will vary somewhat depending on your location, but will ideally be pH 7-8.5.
Parasites
The signs of a parasitic infection are usually very visual. Increased mucus on the fish usually indicates a large infection level, visible as a pale sheen on the body of the fish. Fish will often flick and flash as they try to scrape
the irritation. Some parasites such as argulus, (pictured) leeches and whitespot are actually visible on the fish. Gill infections can be harder to spot,
but are more dangerous to the fish, harming delicate gill membranes. Mucus will build up on the gills, so look out for puffed gills and difficulties in breathing. Parasites being present on fish is quite natural and harmless to the fish unless something in their environment changes that allows the parasites to multiply unchecked.
Salt treatments are often effective against parasites, and often a better first course of action before chemicals such as formalin and malachite are used.
Bacteria
Bacterial diseases are often difficult to diagnose, and more tricky to treat than parasite infections. Most ponds will be unaffected but transmission can occur when introducing new fish to a pond. Fish will often combat bacterial infections well, unless they come into contact with some types that their immune system is not adjusted to. Bacterial infections often lead to ulcers on the fish, that can be treated individually, but large infections will require antibiotics. Signs of bacterial infection are generally skin reddening and possibly fin damage.
New Forest Koi, Towers Farm, Barrows Lane, Sway, Lymington, Hampshire, SO41 6DD info@newforestkoi.co.uk